Black wolves, white bears. I’m back in the Canadian Arctic for the next few weeks searching for wolves. This is what truly wild wolf country looks like—no road, no towns, no people except for our band of wolf naturalists in a wilderness the size of California. Endless taiga and tundra loaded with moose—a wolf’s dream country. . But there may be trouble brewing. When I left the pack in September they were holding their territory and had six pups. Since then, however, the Opoyastin Pack has been s