I first encountered sweetbreads a few years ago when I was a judge for a local lamb cooking competition. After sampling some cold, mediocre, and downright bland dishes, my expectations had plummeted.

Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and add the sweetbreads. Simmer for 3-4 minutes. Then remove and refresh in some chilled water. Then gently remove all of the fat and sinew from each ...