Cooking this type of shrimp will leech the famous sweet flavor out, so it is served raw, often with a crunchy side of its fried tail and head. Salmon is commonly found baked in maki rolls.

Some dishes are more puzzling, like a deep-fried maki roll topped with crab salad and a chili oil laced with Frank’s RedHot. Still, even when it’s puzzling, Papa San is a breath of fresh air a ...